Cape Keraudren

16 – 18 May 2022. 9486kms.

Ngarla Country – ‘Pananykarra’.

A last minute recommendation landed us in this gem of a spot halfway between Roebourne and Broome. A late exit meant we turned up in the dark, scrambling to pay national parks via the honesty box, assistance from a friendly Ranger Dave, down to the ocean inlet creek, scrambling for the insect repellent and a spot to set up the camper, keeping in mind the incoming full moon tide!

We awake in the morning to find ourselves surrounded by beauty. Sandhills, ocean scrub, an inviting creek. We settle in, the tide is rising, in for a swim, croc aware! Floating on the current, its coming in fast. We get out to watch it, clean up around the camper, will it reach us? The trees that once sprung up from the creek are now completely submerged. Friendly locals stop by to warn us of the huge tide, and to share sand fly evasion tips. The creek is full but it doesn’t reach us, worth throwing in a line though. To no avail, but Talia a willing student nevertheless.

We explore, find out where we are. A drive to various camp spots around the cape, plenty of others around, just not where we were. We find the Rabbit Proof fence marker, right here is one end of it. The fence that kept out the rabbits perhaps is more significant for guiding stolen children on a long walk across WA, back to their families. An incredible spot, looking out across turquoise waters, rocky capes, fossilised coral underfoot. Vast ocean and earth.

Back at camp, sandhill performances are followed by low tide beach discoveries, spa lounges in rock craters, cartwheels and round offs, long walks to chase the water, crabs hiding beneath the sand, crabs being strangled by octopi! Squeals. What a sight. Poppy and Talia right in there, crab hunting, picking them up, these ones are big though, hefty claws. Ouch, one fingernail pierced, another hand with crab hanging on for dear life. Thank goodness for the distraction of new friends made on the sand flats. Charlie born on the same day as Poppy, friends at first site. They come back to our campsite, young Jaimie a keen fisherman, never caught a fish. Alex helps him out, they snag a cat fish. Oh well! We set up a fire, make toasties for all, Uno and drinks and sharing stories from the road. A beautiful, memorable evening.

May 18, Grandma’s birthday. She’d have been 101. The first of her birthdays without her here with us. She’s in the sun and the moon and the sky.