Karijini National Park

4 – 7 May. 7128 kms.

Banyima, Yinhawangka & Kurrama Country.

What a privilege to immerse in the country of the Banyjima, Kurrama and Innawonga Aboriginal people, at Karijini – named by white fellas as Hamersley Ranges – part of the Warlu Way, sea serpent dreaming. We walked, swam and relished in gorges and rock pools, admiring these old ocean floors, continental plates cracked, the motion of the ocean now seen as waves in the rocks. A series of oases in the middle of a semi arid desert, controlled and managed by traditional owners. This is country treated right. Dragon flies, freshwater perch, snappy gums, lizards, termite mounds, wedge tailed eagles. A dingo crossing in front of our car!

Day 1 we arrived to clear guidance from Kayleen at the Visitors Centre to head straight to Dales Gorge / Fern Pool on this hot, hot day. And what a delight! Down some hundreds of steps we arid to the most luscious, wide pool backed by an enormous step waterfall. True magic. Recollections of chasing waterfalls overseas to now discover this beauty on our home shores. After setting up camp at Karijini Eco retreat, on Kayleen’s suggestion, Day 2 was spent bush walking at nearby Weano gorge in the morning. Kalamina gorge in the afternoon, a life-sized fairy garden, mossy and lush, a huge pool and waterfall all to ourselves, swim, then walk, keep walking, the gorge and pools go on and on, red cliffs towering above us. An inspired Talia rips off clothes for a skinny dip, followed closely by Poppy. More magic. Day 3 of Kayleen’s itinerary, an hour’s drive to Hamersley gorge, exit the national park, drive past Mount Bruce (too epic a hike for our little family at 1,100m) and the neighbouring mine (never far from a mine in WA), and back into the park to the gorge. More awe inspiring beauty. Floating in pools and down gorges on a communal tyre. Climbing slippery rocks to the ‘spa’. Can it be true? A divine little pool with a cascading and deliciously warm waterfall. All life began here? With the rock scaling to get there, we didn’t take the camera, so you’ll just have to visit yourself one day to see it! Lunch on the warm rocks, warming cool bodies, like lizards. Day 4, it can’t be time to leave! Time to tackle the class 5 walk to Kermit’s pool, hiking down, down, down, and along, and through water, in cossies and wetting sneakers. So worth it! A pool deep in the gorge, walls rising narrowly on either side. Utterly breathtaking.

Karijini Eco Retreat a real treat! Internet coverage, kids get their fill of The Voice, adults get a fill of fancy food and table service. Croc curry and tasty wine!

We leave with full hearts, clear heads, and understanding the deep privilege of being able to enjoy country that has been cared for for millenia.